The timeless treasure of Greece flourishes in global markets offering authenticity and a unique flavor that delights palates. Greek dairy companies, committed to innovation and investments, are redefining the future of Feta.
Article: Kyriaki Moustakidou
Feta, apart from being an irresistible delicacy, is also considered the oldest recorded cheese in history. Greek mythology and historical excerpts set its first appearance in the 8th century BC, when Homer’s Odyssey was written. According to the Greek ancient author’s epic poem, the one-eyed Cyclops Polyphemus discovered a primitive form of feta cheese by accident. From this verbal depiction rooted in antiquity to relatively recent 2002 AC, when the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status granted to Greek feta, safeguarding that only cheese made in specific regions of Greece* can legally be called authentic feta, its nationality has been proven several times.
Nowadays, Feta triumphs in exports as it has shown a significant increase during recent years. “Especially in the last four years, it has scored a mid-double-digit yearly increase (12%), reaching a value share of €785 million in 2024 with a volume of 97,000 tons. The total amount of Feta produced in Greece is about 140,000 tons, which means that more than 65% of the total production is now being exported, a percentage that was an unattainable goal a few years ago”, stated the President of the Association of Greek Dairy Industries (SEVGAP), Mr. Christos Apostolopoulos, talking to Ambrosia Magazine.
The top 5 export destinations for Feta are Germany, Italy, United Kingdom, France and the USA. Citizens of these countries seem to truly love the tangy and slightly salty flavor of the unique Greek cheese, which holds an esteemed place in their hearts. On top of that, the aforementioned success is the result of the systematic effort by Feta producers who managed to apply and follow a concrete strategy, amplifying their presence.
Τhe significance of PDO status for Feta
The dairy sector in Greece is both constantly growing and reshaping the way people around the globe perceive the product variety of the industry. During this creative journey, domestic dairy companies deal with certain challenges, such as the unprecedented imitation of Feta, to which many dairy industries abroad have indulged, often far exceeding the limits of legislation and ethical practice.
Regarding this critical issue, Mr. Apostolopoulos summarized the latest efforts and victorious steps made by SEVGAP to defend its PDO status. “The battles fought recently by SEVGAP concerned the protection and recognition of the uniqueness of Feta in third countries. Specifically, 4 battles were fought against giant multinational and American interests Consortium that reacted in every way (objections, dispute, etc.) to the above protections in Singapore and Chile. Despite the inequality of these battles, we have won all of them based on the unique reputation and quality of our national product”, he explained to Ambrosia Magazine.
In addition, the original Greek Feta has been targeted by the US Government. The Office of the US Trade Representative (USTR) applies pressure on the European Union to abolish its system of geographical indications for agricultural products. Mr. Apostolopoulos, among other points, commented: “it is difficult for anyone to follow America’s recent announcements – let alone determine whether they reflect actions of tactics or a shift in philosophy regarding market products. Its latest completely absurd demand for the abolition of PDO products (including Feta) reveals deep ignorance and total lack of respect. The worst thing of all, however, is that these demands don’t make any real commercial sense, since all the imitations of Feta that are produced in 10 times the quantity of imported Greek feta, are never going to be threatened by the one and only Greek Feta. Quite simply, production of real Feta cannot be scaled up arbitrarily, as it is, by definition, a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product. As for the possibility of exporting the so-called American “feta” to Europe, with its higher price point (not to mention its incomparable quality), such an idea is unrealistic at best”.
* Feta is produced in the traditional way in mainland Greece and Lesbos Prefecture, made from sheep milk, or from a mixture of sheep milk and up to 30% of goat milk.
