Retsina, one of the most iconic Greek wines, is enjoying a true “renaissance” thanks to a new generation of winemakers who are creating unique products of remarkable finesse, rich in aromas, flavors, and aftertastes.
Article: Eva Touna
Born on the land of Greece four thousand years ago, retsina gradually became an integral part of Greek culinary culture. Traditionally crafted from Greek grape varieties – most often Roditis – it owes its name and distinctive flavor to the addition of pine resin (retsini), which was initially used to seal amphorae, preventing the wine from spoiling. Besides sealing the vessels, the resin was soon discovered to enrich the wine with a distinctive aroma – resulting in a delightful, differentiated product. Eventually, it began to be added intentionally into the must, giving birth to a style that would accompany Greeks for centuries. Yet, as global tastes shifted towards other types of wine – with fruitier notes and more delicate profiles – retsina gradually fell out of favor.
Today, however, it is reclaiming its place at the table. A group of visionary winemakers has elevated the product to new heights, winning international awards and reshaping its reputation.
“Greek resinated wine is being relaunched on the international stage with a profile that harmonizes tradition and contemporary oenology,” says Afroditi Antoniou, marketing manager at Greek winery Kechris near the Port of Thessaloniki. “With deep roots in Greece’s wine history, retsina is now presented to global buyers as an authentic product of unique character, proudly carrying PGI certification.”
This renewed identity is underlined by Mrs. Antonia Papagiannakos, of the Papagiannakos Winery, in Mesogaia, Attica: “Modern Greek retsina is now presented as a high-quality gastronomic product with historical roots and distinctiveness. It is not just a traditional drink but a true expression of terroir and expertise.” According to her, “its superior quality can be certified by awards in international competitions and positive feedback from sommeliers and wine critics who recognize the refined, contemporary identity of retsina. It is also verified by quality certifications from producers who follow strict standards, ensuring both origin and production methods.”
Pioneers Leading the revival
For Kechris Winery retsina is not just part of its portfolio, it is the foundation of its vision. This is why its promotion as a unique Greek wine of great history and cultural significance is a priority and a pillar of its development strategy. “Our mission has been to prove that retsina deserves a place among the world’s great wines”, says Mrs Antoniou: “The role of Kechris Winery in relaunching the unique qualities of retsina but also of the Greek wine in general, domestically and abroad, has been crucial. It is the only winery in Greece that invests in dedicated research on retsina, working alongside institutions such as Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. By combining a scientific approach and long expertise in producing traditional wine, it has created four PGI retsina labels, which are not just contemporary expressions of a traditional product; they inspire a new generation of wine lovers, offering an experience of exceptional aesthetic and flavor.”
According to Mrs. Antoniou, one of the main characteristics that make Kechris’ retsinas stand out is the meticulous selection of grape varieties. More specifically, grapes of Xinomavro and Assyrtiko are picked from specific vineyards, ensuring high-quality raw material and authentic expression of the terroir: “Fermentation is completed under controlled temperature conditions, maintaining the varietal aromas of the wine. The use of pine resin is executed with absolute precision. It is not seen merely as an element of tradition, but as an ingredient of unique character. The resin is collected and added to the must during fermentation in small quantities, complementing the grape aromas without dominating the result. The final product is a retsina of complete balance: fruity fresh aromas come first, while subtle notes of pine, thyme, rosemary, and mastic emerge.”
A similar philosophy guides Papagiannakos Winery, a family-owned estate – the first bioclimatic winery in the Attica region – with a history dating back to 1919: “We are deeply connected to our land and native grape varieties, which we showcase with respect for tradition while employing innovative winemaking methods”, notes Mrs Papagiannakos. “Our retsina, Origins, is a flagship expression of this philosophy, blending the authentic identity of retsina with a modern, clean, and fresh approach. Retsina is unique due to the addition of pine resin during fermentation, which imparts aromas of freshness and earthy distinctiveness. Our retsina stands out because it is made from carefully selected Savatiano grapes grown in old vineyards in the Mesogeia region. The resin is added with great care and precision, ensuring balance with the fruit and acidity without overwhelming them. Modern vinification at controlled temperatures with minimal intervention results in a refined, expressive, and well-balanced character that appeals even to consumers unfamiliar with retsina”.
A Growing Global Presence
This new profile of retsina, which embodies both the history of the product and its contemporary identity, is driving retsina’s expansion abroad. “Our winery is present in key markets such as the USA, UK, Canada, Germany, and Australia, where there is growing interest in authentic and traditional Greek products”, says Mrs Papagiannakos. “Our goal for the near future is to strengthen our presence in Scandinavia and Asia – markets that value naturalness, quality, and the uniqueness of a product with authentic identity.”
Similarly, Kechris Winery has also gained traction abroad, according to Mrs. Antoniou: “We produce 11 wine labels, exporting 30% of our products to 31 countries in Europe, America, Australia, and Asia. Our vision is to make retsina a true landmark on the global wine map”.
